Hello everyone!  There were bombing barrels all day long today.  The swell is pumping and it is still getting bigger.  It was not perfect all day, but there were some all time moments with some amazing waves being ridden.  I did not have as much luck.  I ran a mile up the beach to take pictures, then I ran a mile back down the beach to put up the camera.  Next I grabbed my board and ran back up the beach to try and catch a few waves.  I caught one mediocre right and then I kooked it on a left and broke my board.  2 waves in 2 hours and a broken board.  That's life.  Check out the gallery below...